Travel - The Hungry Nomad

Andalusia, Food, Seville, Spain, Tapas, Travel, Wine Bar

Tapas in Seville (Sevilla, Spain)

April 7, 2014 No Comments

After our three days of adventures in Madrid we packed our bags hopped on the train and made our way south to Sevilla.

Sevilla was all that I imagined it to be and more: bursting with color and antique charm, beautiful historic buildings, endless rays of sun and flamenco. The Alcazar Palace Complex is a stunning collage of architectural styles and beautiful green gardens took our breathe away and the Cathedral was impressive you with its beauty and its status as the burial site of Christopher Columbus. We spent our days touring the town on foot and nights eating tapas in only a few of the more than 4000 tapas bars in town. On the first day that we visited the town we ended our walk at the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza. Around the corner from the Plaza de Toros we found a restaurant called Baratillo dedicated to the art of bull fighting and decided to give it a try.

Bull heads lined the walls and locals and tourists alike crowded the room. As a newbie to the art of tapas we werent too sure of our selections but there was one thing that I discovered while in Sevilla which was so delicious that I ended up having three servings per day.I wish I remembered the name but only have the photos to remind me of the taste. Fries served with a meat stew and gravy. Very simple but simply delicious.

The dish called Broken Egg or Huevos Rotos is quite popular all around Spain consists of fried eggs, fried potatoes and pieces of Iberico ham. It is simply delicious and made it to our list of orders on every occasion.

The house special- the Berenjenas Baratillo was to die for. Not sure what the sauce that covered the thinly sliced eggplant dish consisted of but whatever it was- it was so delicious we had to order more.

Baratillo restaurant is located at: Calle Adriano, 20, 41001 Seville, Spain, El Arenal

Cajun, Creole, Gumbo, Lafayette, Louisiana, Seafood

“Swamp Edge’ Cuisine at Steve & Pats Bon Temps Rouler (Lafayette, LA)

February 6, 2014 1 Comment

From Philadelphia to Lafayette, our latest move has landed us in the heart of Cajun country. And while many locals enjoy the likes of shrimps and grits and shrimp and sausage gumbo in their homes, we have to scavenge the country looking for good cajun food. This is how we found Steve and Pat’s Bon Temps Rouler, a modern restaurant serving traditional and innovative cajun food (see menu).

Whenever Gumbo is on the menu I never fail to order it. Gumbo, especially a good home-style gumbo is a traditional Souther Louisiana which quickly became a favorite with my tastebuds. The Smoked Bird & Andouille Gumbo at Steve and Pat’s was no exception.

The meal started with the Tuna tartar. A generous portion of chopped raw tuna served on top of fresh lime marinated avocado in a bed of citrus ponzu sauce, served with home made potato chips. It was a creative spin on the traditional tuna tartar and definitely one of my favorite versions.

Next came the creamy Bbq shrimp and grits….followed by another….and then another (it was that good). The Jumbo shrimps were cooked in New Orleans style BBQ sauce which was creamy, buttery and oh so good served over roasted jalapeno cheese grits.

The Count ordered the Garlic Panneed Frog Legs for our guests because when in Cajun country, we must eat like the cajuns. Frog legs are perhaps the one thing that I have never tried and am not willing to try but by the bare bones that remained on the plate I assumed that it was one tasty leg of a frog.

The Seafood Creole Cobb Salad was a great salad for those who love their seafood. Generous portions of lump crabmeat and shrimp served with a few pieces of mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, apple wood smoked bacon, cheddar, boiled egg and red onions. The large portion makes it a great main dish however, I found that the proportion of seafood to mixed greens was a little too much.

Food, Hotel, Istanbul, Summer, Travel, Turkey, Turkish

Neorion Hotel (Istanbul, Turkey)

February 3, 2014 No Comments

Our last stop this summer in Europe was Istanbul. We started at the tip of the continent in Portugal and ended in Turkey where Europe meets Asia.

Istanbul. You have won my heart. Your beauty, charm, history and friendly welcoming people. A first trip to Istanbul, I was not sure what to expect. Where to stay. What to see and eat. We ended up staying in the Sirkegi district at the Neorion Hotel, neighboring the historical Sultanahmet district where most of the historical sites are situated. The hotel is constantly rated No. 1 hotel in Istanbul by TripAdvisor, which also awarded it the Travelers’ Choice® 2013 Award: one of the top 25 hotels in Turkey, and one of the top 25 hotels in the entire world! Based on these great reviews we had to stay at the Neorion hotel and experience the greatness for ourselves.

Upon arriving through the mazed streets of the neighborhood I really was not sure what to expect. An unassuming street with a more unassuming outside appearance. Once we walked inside all worries were put to rest.

Location:

Neorion hotel is located in the heart of Istanbul’s history, culture, food and nightlife. Only minutes walk from the Topkapi palace, the Grand Bazaar, the Spice Market and everything else that you want to see in a short stay.

Rooms & Decor:

The hotel, opened in 2011, was conceived and designed to honor and reflect all of the cultures that have enriched the city and its empires.The rooms are spotlessly clean each room decorated with a large colorful historical painting of Istanbul. A welcome letter from the owners and a gift were waiting for us. The rooms were quiet even though they were facing the front street.

Dining:

The complimentary breakfast was a combination of eastern and western options. A wall of honeycomb slowly drizzling down is a hit with hotel guests.

Amenities:

Neorion hotel offers a health club with small pool, jacuzzi, sauna and two hamams. But for me the best part of the hotel was the rooftop terrace which offers free complimentary drinks at happy hour overlooking the mystical city. Perhaps the most memorable moment of our stay occurred on the rooftop while sipping on a glass of wine, watching the sun slowly descend into hues of pink and red between the minarets of the Suleymaniye Mosque while listening to the evening prayers. And who can complain of the complimentary early-evening meze buffet with delicious Turkish treats to go along with your glass of wine (or tea).

Service:

The staff were waiting to welcome us with a serving of tea. We were given a brief about the hotel and neighborhood and walked to our room. Perhaps what makes Neorion hotel so special is the friendly service and humble staff. Throughout our stay they went out of their way to make us feel at home. When you arrive at the hotel after a long flight or day of sightseeing, you are offered with a complimentary meal: a bowl of soup, a sandwich, stuffed peppers, salads, a slice of cake and a cup of coffee or tea, or other light dishes. What’s more? If you arrive early in the day like we did, you will be allowed to have complimentary breakfast and check in extra early if the rooms are ready. Really, it is this kind of service and thoughtfulness that makes the hotel so special and constantly rated number 1 on tripadvisor.

Food, Istanbul, Travel, Turkey, Turkish

Istanbul, My Heart is Forever Yours!

January 17, 2014 No Comments

Landing in Istanbul and walking through the airport was quite a dramatic change from the rest of our European destinations. The mix of cultures, religions, languages and history was evident as early as the customs line up where women covered in the Islamic hijab stood in line next to girls in short skirts. I was already in awe and felt envious. In my motherland of Iran, such freedoms are not granted and it surprised me to see how harmonious the blend of individual choices and freedoms can be in a predominantly muslim country.

The taxi ride to the Neorion Hotel was like no other. While most airports are in a dreadful neighborhood outside of town where getting to the center requires looking out at the freeway and other not so pretty scenes, the ride to the center of Istanbul was the most breathtaking airport ride of my life. We were driven right next to the Marmara, with a view onto the Bosphorus. I was surprised by the overwhelming green space and lush gardens that covered most of Istanbul. It was love at first sight. And while my love for Paris will never be replaced Istanbul rose quickly to the top as my favorite destination. Maybe it was the melancholic reminder of memories of my childhood in Iran and the similarities or maybe it was the history, the people and beauty of Istanbul that made me fall in love. I’m still not sure. All I know is I have never been so sad to leave a city behind. I am left wanting more and planning my next destination to Turkey.

Of all the amazing things that Istanbul had to offer, the hospitality, generosity and warmth of the Turkish people was what left the biggest mark on us. This post is dedicated to the Turkish people and features mostly photos of the generous people of Istanbul. From the fig stand man from whom I wanted to purchase one fig from, who gave me 3 for free and insisted on not accepting my money because he only sold by the kilo to our hotel manager who personally rode the train with the Count to the other side of town late one night to pick up medication. And so the stories and myths of turkish rip-offs all turned out to be just that: myths and tales from an angry tourists past.

Istanbul, a universal beauty where poet and archeologist, diplomat and merchant, princess and sailor, northerner and westerner screams with same admiration. The whole world thinks that this city is the most beautiful place on earth.
Edmondo De Amicis

Athens, Food, Greece, Greek food, Travel

Hilton Hotel (Athens, Greece)

December 22, 2013 1 Comment

We arrived on a hot day in August appearing out of the subway station into a hazy fog and scorching sun that can bring anyone to their knees. Our hotel of choice was the Hilton Athens situated in the Kolonaki district.

Location:

The hotel is very central within walking distance to the upscale shops, bars and restaurants of the Kolonaki neighborhood. The Evangelismos metro station is situated across from the hotel allowing for easy access to the major tourist destinations.

Rooms:

The hotel itself is everything you would expect from an upscale hilton. Great, friendly service with top notch facilities. We were generously given an executive suite overlooking the Acropolis from our room and access to the elegant Executive Lounge, with private check-in/out, in addition happy hour drinks and snacks available until late evening.

The bathroom was extremely clean and crisp with white and grey marble lining the counters and walls. Local Greek wine and a basket of fruits were waiting for us on our arrival. A top to bottom window opened up to a balcony overlooking the Acropolis in the distance. In the evening, the view turned magical with the golden lights of the acropolis reflecting from the distance.

Facilities:

In the heat of the summer, guests can also relax by the outdoor pool before freshening up and heading to the penthouse for drinks at the ever so fashionable Galaxy Restaurant and Bar.
Dining:

The rooftop Galaxy Restaurant and Bar at the Hilton Hotel is a must for anyone who is staying at the hotel and all others who are looking for a night out on the town eating haute international cuisine. The indoor-outdoor bar/restaurant is split into two sections: the bar and on one end the restaurant. We opted to dine at the Galaxy Restaurant during our short trip in Athens and were not let down. In fact, it was one of the best meals we had during our trip in Europe. Wining and dining under the Athenian stars with a view to kill, things could not get better. (See Review on Galaxy Restaurant).

The next morning we enjoyed complimentary continental breakfast enjoyed in the large Byzantino restaurant. It was one of the largest breakfasts we had and featured both local greek flavours and international food. Service was as always immaculate and friendly.

The Hilton Athens is located at: 46 Vassilissis Sofias Avenue, Athens 11528, Greece

Telephone: +1 888-414-2018

Website: Hilton Hotel

Note: Our stay at the Hilton Hotel and all meals were complimentary.

Athens, Greece, Greek food, Travel

Two Days in Athens (Greece)

December 21, 2013 No Comments

Our Italian journey ended in Rome. From Rome we took an Easyjet flight to Athens, Greece. After one and a half months of traveling and sightseeing we were ready to relax and spend time on the sandy beaches of the cyclades but not before we paid our respects to my beloved city, Athens. Most people use Athens as a stepping stone to get to the islands, not taking any time to see the city. But for me Athens is a jewel in disguise waiting to be discovered.

Athens is a city that lies close to my heart. The first time my 21st self stepped foot onto the sun-kissed concrete city I felt like I was back in Tehran, Iran. A free Iran. From the architecture, traffic, and landscape to the warm people and the amazing food everything for me was a gentle reminder of my motherland. I was lucky enough to have travelled with born and raised Athenians who knew the city inside and out and as a result was given a thorough tour of the city and what it has to offer. Athens is comprised of old and new high rises, neoclassical houses, and incomplete concrete frames. There is a certain orderly chaos that makes the city so charming. Not to mention the people who are kind, giving and welcoming. The most welcoming hosts on our journey through Europe (after Turkey) making Greece again one of my top three destinations in the world. Here is a list of my favorite things to do and see in Athens.

1. Get lost in the oldest neighbourhood of Athens, the Plaka and shop for souvenirs and trinkets. Don’t forget to bargain your price down as bargaining is a way of life in Greece. Try to find your way to Byzantino (tel: (30-210) 324 6605). Here you will find handmade ‘museum-copy’ jewelry replicating ancient Greek pieces. You can be assured that nothing here is made in China as all is made in the Athens workshop of this family run business.

2. From Plaka walk your way up the hills toward the “high city”, the Acropolis. Here you’ll see the Temple of Athena Nike, the Erechtheion (my favorite) and the Parthenon along with many pieces of stones arranged on the ground for eventual reassembly. The Count loved to re-live the history of the Persian kings burning the ancient city of Athens to the ground.

3. Visit the Acropolis Museum and revel at thousands of years of history carved in marble.

4. Spend the evening in one of the many outdoor cinemas nestled in parks and gardens around town. My favorite is the one located at the south side of the Acropolis, the Thiseion (tel: 30-210 347 0980).

5. Party it up in the lively Gazi district. It has been dubbed Athen’s coolest neighborhood with many bars, restaurants and live music venues.

6. For treasure hunting visit the Monastiraki flea market located in the Avissynias Square. You can literally find anything and everything from books to clothes to souvenirs.

7. Since I am a foodie I never miss the opportunity to visit a city’s central market, in Athens that is the Agora market. Here you can get the freshest meat, fish and vegetables along with a lively setting with lots of yelling and bargaining.

8. Eat a Greek salad in one of the city’s many tavernas washed down by a souvlaki. Or vice versa.

9. Spend the evening shopping, drinking and dining in the chic neighborhood of Kolonaki. 10. Take the obligatory photo with the guards at the Parliament building in Syntagma square.

Side note: Since my last trip to Greece in 2007, the country’s economy has suffered. I was afraid that visiting the country would deplete me of my wonderful memories and sadden me at the state of affairs. What I found was a proud people keeping their head up and hoping for change to come. Living in the United States often we only see the worst headlines on the news. Many warned us to redirect our Greece trip based on the headlines to avoid being caught in strikes and violence. Yet, it was still as safe and friendly as ever. If tourists stopped going to Greece, Greeks would suffer even more from a decrease in one of their main sources of income, tourism. So my advice is: go to Greece and live the myth for yourself! It is no wonder that it was the home of the gods as there is a certain mystical sense of beauty and history at every turn.

Florence, Food, Italian food, Italy, Travel, Tuscany

A Tuscan Meal at Alla Vecchia Bettola (Florence, Italy)

December 16, 2013 No Comments

Crossing the Arno river to the south side of Florence we discovered a whole new town where tourists were a rare sighting, locals roamed the streets and the real Florence came to life. I myself have been guilty of focusing most of my trips to Florence on the North side where most of the tourist destinations are located. This time, having already checked off all the major tourist must-do’s including the Uffizzi and Duomo we were ready to see what more Florence had in store. The vast beautiful gardens of Giardino de Boboli and Bardini are a peaceful escape from the heat not to mention extremely beautiful. But as most of the nomad’s journeys, we were in search of a true tuscan meal. Walking around the gardens we eventually made our way to Alla Vechia Bettola, a cozy, home-style tuscan restaurant with a large local following.
We arrived quiet early in the evening. Unbeknownst to us, the restaurant was still closed and the staff were around a large table eating their dinner prior to opening. We walked in on them feasting away at the same delicious food that would later be served to us. We apologized for the intrusion in the little Italian we had picked up through our journey and turned around and walked back outside. We sat waiting for them to open their doors. Embarrassed to be the first eager diners at the restaurant I pointed to my belly and attempted to explain that we were very hungry. Minutes later a gentle server came to welcome us in. The old tuscan man and wife team were there chatting away with every customer that walked in the door. Most diners appeared to be local regulars. The restaurant filled up within minutes making us thankful for having arrived early. We quickly ordered and were served with glasses of the house wine. I really wish I could have ordered everything off the menu as everything that came out of the kitchen looked divine. But sadly there is only so much a hungry duo can eat. We started off with a prosciutto and melon salad to start. It was the real thing. Fresh pieces of lemon and local cured prosciutto. For our main entrees we ordered the cheese penne and macaroni with wild boar. Both dishes were absolutely amazing and the closest thing to real italian cooking that the two of us will ever get to. Our meal was so good that the Count considered ordering a second meal and when realizing that wasn’t a realistic option suggested we go back the next day before leaving Florence.

I hesitate to recommend this restaurant only because it is so good and still remains out of most tourist’s reach. But if you are a big foodie like me and are trying to explore true tuscan dining, Alla Vecchia Bettola will not disappoint.

Florence, Food, Italian food, Italy, Steak, Tuscany

Where to Eat a Florentine Steak in Florence (Italy)

December 12, 2013 2 Comments

Florence is a citywide outdoor museum which means tourists are aplenty. The large number of tourist means many mediocre restaurants exist where the waitstaff and kitchen staff are mainly underpaid illegal immigrants and Italians are hard to come by. Food at these restaurants tend to be pre-made, frozen and generally quite bad. Unfortunately, after a long day of sightseeing it is hard to avoid these restaurants but here are a few pointers: restaurants where the waiters stand outside waiving you in, restaurants with billboards and photos of the food, restaurants where no one speaks Italian. In the short time we spent in Florence I decided that our trip should include a trip to a Florentine steakhouse where we could experience a taste of a true bistecca alla fiorentina. With recommendations from the wonderful concierge at the JK Place Firenze we walked around the corner to Buca Lapi. The restaurant was literally around the corner from our hotel yet we ended up getting lost in the intertwining narrow streets, almost got run over my some motorbikes and finally ended up where we started and decided to use our very expensive GPS to lead us the 10 meter walk to the restaurant.

Buca Lapi is the oldest Florentine restaurant housed in Palazzo Antinori’s wine cellars underground with the dining room located in the actual cellar and covered wall to wall with old and new tourist advertisements. Our server was fluent in English and was very friendly and helpful with the menu. All other customers also happened to be english speaking tourists, making me doubt our choice. Yet, when I saw the steak being cut up for the table next to us, all second-guessing was laid to rest. We ordered two pasta dishes to start including a spinach and ricotta gnocchi and a pappardelle with braised rabbit and porcini mushrooms. We were both filled by the end of our first plate and were ready to call it a night but we had already ordered the steak. Minutes later a man was cutting up a large piece of steak for us that really looked like it could have been a large piece of a whole cow. It was huge. Did I mention that the Count does not like steak? He is just not a meat and potatoes kind of guy and likes his meal filled with different flavors and spices. Besides his dislike for meat he was not a big fan of the price tag on this piece of Florentine steak, which cost approximately 70 euros. We ordered the steak medium rare and were served a meat that was quite raw, bloody and juicy. Even though I am a lover of meat, it was even hard for me to swallow all that meat. When it was time for dessert, we had no room left and decided to finish off with the steak. We could only get through one quarter of the steak and the rest was wasted. What a true waste.
If you have a large budget and want to eat a good steak than I would recommend Buca Lapi however, there are many cheaper and better places to eat good Italian food in Florence of which Buca Lapi is not. The locals will not spend more than 20 euros on a good meal and that includes wine. We experienced this on another night when we found a local restaurant (see post) where the food was finger licking good, and our entire bill came to 30 euros. In fact, it was so good that the Count wanted to go back the next day for lunch before we took off to Tuscany. If you do decide to go Buca Lapi definitely share the meals.

Breakfast, Brunch, Cajun, Food, Lafayette, Louisiana

The French Press (Lafayette, LA)

December 3, 2013 3 Comments

Our latest move has brought us down to the heart of Louisiana: Lafayette. And after two months of settling in I am finally discovering the food scene. Of course, it is not Philadelphia, New York or New Orleans which makes the Hungry Nomad very hungry and in constant search of good food. That is how I was led to the French Press which in my mind is the greatest thing to hit this town. Innovative meals and funky spaces are a rarity in this part of the country and I long for my days spent dining in Philly and New York. But walking into the French Press I felt like I was right back in the city.

Owners Justin and Margaret Girouard have created a funky space where local hipsters and hungry diners blend in perfect harmony. The restaurant features many of its original pieces left behind from its original tenants. High ceilings, peeling paint, exposed brick and concrete floors give it a certain old time charm. But what makes this place filled with hungry diners and a line up out the door is the fantastic and innovative food.

Chef Justin Girouard has created an award-worthy menu consisting of creative dishes which will certainly leave you wanting more (see menu). Our brunch started off with a perfect bloody mary topped off with pickled okras, spicy beans and olives. And while it did take a good 15-20 minutes for our drinks to come out it was well worth the wait. Ironically, it was the french press coffee which took longer than anything to make it to our table.

The cajun benedict was the highlight, a perfectly plated eggs benedict topped with the house gumbo. What an amazing dish. I polished my plate clean and as a result will be going back just for my weekly intake of this wonderful concoction.

Our table also ordered the stuffed french toast for dessert. It was bursting with a soft creamy cream cheese topped with a berry-champagne compote. Another to die for dish!

The verdict of our first brunch at the French Press? Best brunch spot in Louisiana. If you are planning a trip through Louisiana, the French Press is an absolute must.

Europe, Food, Italian food, Italy, Travel, Tuscany

A Medieval Feast in Montisi (Province of Siena, Italy)

November 21, 2013 No Comments

In my previous post I mentioned how our trip through Italy was left up to the stars and in the end we ended up driving through Tuscany, staying on an olive farm in an olive farmer’s home in Castelmuzio and drowning in local wine at a medieval jousting competition in Montisi.

On the eve of our arrival in Montisi we were invited to feast with the locals on the eve of the jousting competition. Montisi is a small walled hill town on the outskirts of Siena. Yet, in this small town there are four distinct contradas: San Martino, Castello, Torre and Piazza. Each contrada hosts a four course dinner prepared by the towns grandmothers shared alongside endless bottles of wine and the local contrada’s chant. Walking through town I felt like I was stepping on the scene of Romeo and Juliet. It was exactly how a medeviel town should look in my mind. All along the narrrow streets were picnic tables topped with bottles of local wine. Everyone was wearing their contrada’s colors and flags. We sat next to a group of locals from another neighbouring town in the Piazza contrada section of town. One out of the four of them spoke broken english and the rest was left up to communicating the good old way, through wine, food and hand signals.

The dinner was prepared in the local square by a handful of grandmothers with the assistance of many. Large pots of pasta was served to us in plates and the grandmas walked around offering second servings sometimes forcefully reminding me of my own grandmother insisting we eat seconds.

Boundless bottles of red wine later and representatives of our contrada all dressed up in green and orange started walking toward our table asking us to pledge our allegiance to their contrada alongside a christening with the local red wine. About half a bottle of wine was poured down my throat and I can now claim that I am an honorary member of the Piazza contrada for life.

By the end of the dinner, the Count and I were on first name basis with our Italian comarades and somehow the communication skills flowed with ease. It seemed their English and our Italian had improved tremendously making me believe that the secret to speaking another language is a few bottles of wine.

The following day the four contradas paraded through town and to a field for the jousting competition where the Castello contrada won and celebrated again that evening in town with more red wine and good food.

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