Where to Eat a Florentine Steak in Florence (Italy)

Florence is a citywide outdoor museum which means tourists are aplenty. The large number of tourist means many mediocre restaurants exist where the waitstaff and kitchen staff are  mainly underpaid illegal immigrants and Italians are hard to come by. Food at these restaurants tend to be pre-made, frozen and generally quite bad. Unfortunately, after a long day of sightseeing it is hard to avoid these restaurants but here are a few pointers:  restaurants where the waiters stand outside waiving you in, restaurants with billboards and photos of the food, restaurants where no one speaks Italian. In the short time we spent in Florence I decided that our trip should include a trip to a Florentine steakhouse where we could experience a taste of a true  bistecca alla fiorentina. With recommendations from the wonderful concierge at the JK Place Firenze we walked around the corner to Buca Lapi.  The restaurant was literally around the corner from our hotel yet we ended up getting lost in the intertwining narrow streets, almost got run over my some motorbikes and finally ended up where we started and decided to use our very expensive GPS to lead us the 10 meter walk to the restaurant.

08-P103078003-P1030750 Buca Lapi is the oldest Florentine restaurant housed in Palazzo Antinori’s wine cellars underground with the dining room located in the actual cellar and covered wall to wall with old and new tourist advertisements. Our server was fluent in English and was very friendly and helpful with the menu. All other customers also happened to be english speaking tourists, making me doubt our choice. Yet, when I saw the steak being cut up for the table next to us, all second-guessing was laid to rest.  We ordered two pasta dishes to start including a spinach and ricotta gnocchi and a pappardelle with braised rabbit and porcini mushrooms. We were both filled by the end of our first plate and were ready to call it a night but we had already ordered the steak.  04-P1030751 Minutes later a man was cutting up a large piece of steak for us that really looked like it could have been  a large piece of a whole cow. It was huge. Did I mention that the Count does not like steak? He is just not a meat and potatoes kind of guy and likes his meal filled with different flavors and spices. Besides his dislike for meat he was not a big fan of the price tag on this piece of Florentine steak, which cost approximately 70 euros. 07-P1030759 06-P1030762We ordered the steak medium rare and were served a meat that was quite raw, bloody and juicy. Even though I am a lover of meat, it was even hard for me to swallow all that meat. When it was time for dessert, we had no room left and decided to finish off with the steak. We could only get through one quarter of the steak and the rest was wasted. What a true waste.
02-P1030745If you have a large budget and want to eat a good steak than I would recommend  Buca Lapi however, there are many cheaper and better places to eat good Italian food in Florence of which Buca Lapi is not.  The locals will not spend more than 20 euros on a good meal and that includes wine. We experienced this on another night when we found a local restaurant (see post) where the food was finger licking good, and our entire bill came to 30 euros. In fact, it was so good that the Count wanted to go back the next day for lunch before we took off to Tuscany.  If you do decide to go Buca Lapi definitely share the meals.
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The French Press (Lafayette, LA)

Our latest move has brought us down to the heart of Louisiana: Lafayette. And after two months of settling in I am finally discovering the food scene. Of course, it is not Philadelphia, New York or New Orleans which makes the Hungry Nomad very hungry and in constant search of good food. That is how I was led to the French Press which in my mind is the greatest thing to hit this town. Innovative meals and funky spaces are a rarity in this part of the country and I long for my days spent dining in Philly and New York. But walking into the French Press I felt like I was right back in the city.

1-image_2 Owners Justin and Margaret Girouard have created a funky space where local hipsters and hungry diners blend in perfect harmony. The restaurant features many of its original pieces left behind from its original tenants.  High ceilings, peeling paint, exposed brick  and concrete floors give it a certain old time charm. But what makes this place filled with hungry diners and a line up out the door is the fantastic and innovative food.

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Chef Justin Girouard has created an award-worthy menu consisting of creative dishes which will certainly leave you wanting more (see menu). Our brunch started off with a perfect bloody mary topped off with pickled okras, spicy beans and olives. And while it did take a good 15-20 minutes for our drinks to come out it was well worth the wait. Ironically, it was the french press coffee which took longer than anything to make it to our table. 3-image_7

The cajun benedict was the highlight, a perfectly plated eggs benedict topped with the house gumbo. What an amazing dish. I polished my plate clean and as a result will be going back just for my weekly intake of this wonderful concoction.

4-image_9 5-image_12Our table also ordered the stuffed french toast for dessert. It was bursting with a soft creamy cream cheese topped with a berry-champagne compote. Another to die for dish!

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The verdict of our first brunch at the French Press? Best brunch spot in Louisiana. If you are planning a trip through Louisiana, the French Press is an absolute must.


 

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Luxury at its finest at the Il Salviatino (Fiesole, Italy)

No matter how many times people advise you to not make a trip to Italy in the scorching heat of August where only tourists roam the streets, somehow you will make the same mistake over and over again. Simply because you are a tourist. We arrived in Florence on one of the hottest days in August, where the sun beamed down its rays with force and might resulting in empty streets. Even the tourists were hiding somewhere. We could not find them. Florence seemed like a deadtown. I was shocked. The Florence I am used to is busy with a certain enigmatic energy flowing through its history-ridden alleys. Our stay inside the town was short and sweet. The heat only allowed so many tour line ups. Luckily, I had predicted this heat and had booked us a mini-retreat in the nearby town of Fiesole at the world class resort of Il Salviatino where we could use the suns ray to our advantage.

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Location: This ravishing  luxurious 15th century villa is set atop the lush hills of Fiesole overlooking Florence and the rolling Tuscan landscape. The green landscape automatically made it a few degrees cooler than Florence. It is only a short ride away from the center of Florence making it a great option for those wishing to tour Florence while getting a feel for Tuscan living.

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Decor: The hotel boasts 19th-century frescoes, antique bath tubs and valuable artwork. The outdoor dining, Italian rose garden and fountains give it a serene and romantic atmosphere. On the eve of our arrival, a band arrived playing their instruments in the Italian garden where guests and locals drank wine and soaked in the beautiful energy of the moment. The villa itself is as breathtaking on the outside as it is on the inside making me wish that I could have had my dream wedding there in another lifetime. (See video: Jazz in the Gardens)

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Rooms: The villa has 45 rooms including 22 private suites with stunning views. The rates typically include breakfast served in the gardens (in the summertime). Handmade authentic Tuscan linen,  selected artwork and the finest leathers all add to make each one of these suites and rooms a truly unique experience.  All rooms include complimentary wi-fi, rain showers, nespresso coffee machines, safes and complimentary water.

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Spa: Spa Il Salviatino is operated by Florentine perfumier and cosmetologist Dr Vranjes. There are five treatment rooms set amid rolling Italian gardens, specializing in aromatherapeutic relaxation and anti-ageing treatments.

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Dining: The villa has two separate restaurants, Le Serre, a more formal dining experience laid amidst a cozy room set with candlelit tables, or La Terrazza, where you can sit inside our outside.

  • The food was a modern take on traditional Tuscan cuisine. Favorites included the ricotta and spinach gnudi with sage butter. What was once a historic orchard has now been devoted to an organic vegetable gardenmaking the fruit and vegetable offerings as fresh as they can get.

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Service: While all staff at Il Salviatino were courteous and extremely professional it was not the friendliest of hotels we stayed at. However, after having spent a short amount of time there I see that it is the guests manner that has perhaps  led to this. Staying at the Il Salviatino is not an everyday affair, only those with deep pockets can afford to spend more than a few nights there in the summertime. Unfortunately, sometimes guests with deep pockets have a sense of entitlement and speak down to guests. Some of which we witnessed at this hotel. The staff in return have a very withdrawn demeanor which can come across as borderline unfriendly.

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Pool: Open between April and October, the terraced pool area has three heated, cascading infinity pools filled with salty mineral water, overlooking a green valley and surrounded by scented roses and lavender.

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Amenities: Spa, gym, library, 12 acres of landscaped parkland, free WiFi throughout, free shuttle service to Florence. In rooms: flatscreen TV, Nespresso coffee machines, minibar with complimentary mineral water; iPod docks available on request. Every bathroom has LED-lit rain showers with seats, and some have a Jacuzzi or antique bath tub. All guests are assigned a dedicated ‘ambassador’ to look after them during their stay.

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Address: Il Salviatino is located at Via del Salviatino, 12, Florence, Tuscany, 50137

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A Medieval Feast in Montisi (Province of Siena, Italy)

In my previous post I mentioned how our trip through Italy was left up to the stars and in the end we ended up driving through Tuscany, staying on an olive farm in an olive farmer’s home in Castelmuzio and drowning in local wine at a medieval jousting competition in Montisi.

On the eve of our arrival in Montisi we were invited to feast with the locals on the eve of the jousting competition.  Montisi is a small walled hill town on the outskirts of Siena.  Yet, in this small town there are four distinct contradas: San Martino, Castello, Torre and Piazza. Each contrada hosts a four course dinner prepared by the towns grandmothers shared alongside endless bottles of wine and the local contrada’s chant. Walking through town I felt like I was stepping on the scene of Romeo and Juliet. It was exactly how a medeviel town should look in my mind. All along the narrrow streets were picnic tables topped with bottles of local wine. Everyone was wearing their contrada’s colors and flags. We sat next to a group of locals from another neighbouring town in the Piazza contrada section of town. One out of the four of them spoke broken english and the rest was left up to communicating the good old way, through wine, food and hand signals.

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The dinner was prepared in the local square by a handful of grandmothers with the assistance of many. Large pots of pasta was served to us in plates and the grandmas walked around offering second servings sometimes forcefully reminding me of my own grandmother insisting we eat seconds.

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Boundless bottles of red wine later and representatives of our contrada all dressed up in green and orange started walking toward our table asking us to pledge our allegiance to their contrada alongside a christening with the local red wine. About half a bottle of wine was poured down my throat and I can now claim that I am an honorary member of the Piazza contrada for life.

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By the end of the dinner, the Count and I were on first name basis with our Italian comarades and somehow the communication skills flowed with ease. It seemed their English and our Italian had improved tremendously making me believe that the secret to speaking another language is a few bottles of wine.

The following day the four contradas paraded through town and to a field for the jousting competition where the Castello contrada won and celebrated again that evening in town with more red wine and good food.

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A Day in Pienza (Tuscany, Italy)

Continuing our journey in the Tuscan countryside we drove from our base on an olive farm in Montalcino to Pienza in the province of Siena. The town was declared a UNESCO world heritage sight in 1996 and the Val d’Orcia on the list of UNESCO’s World Cultural Landscapes. Pienza is located between the wine producing towns of Montalcino and Montepulciano.  Pienza is famous for its Pecorino cheese and it’s model Renaissance architecture.  And so for those of us who love history, architecture and food, Pienza is an Italian dreamer’s heaven. The town is located on a hill overlooking the rolling Tuscan valley, a breathtaking sight on its own.  A road on the south-side of the town walls allows you to take in the breathtaking views and perhaps enjoy a picnic with some local pecorino cheese and wine. We spent the day walking around the small town and its narrow labyrinth of roads filled with cheese shops. All that hunger inducing smell of cheese led us to a tiny restaurant in a side street where we enjoyed one of the best and most authentic meals during our stays in Italy (see post).

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A True Tuscan Meal at La Buca di Enea in Pienza (Tuscany, Italy)

Our journey through Italy was not as thoroughly planned as other portions of our trip. I specifically made it that way so as to have the option to make a decision last minute on a whim. After spending three hot days in Florence and Fiesole we were ready to make a move and had 5 days to discover anywhere in Italy we wanted before returning to our planned itinerary in Rome. Predictably, we rented a car and made our way south through the scenic region of Tuscany.

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With no destination in mind we took the suggestions of a fellow international foodie based out of Tuscany and ended up in Montalcino in Southern Tuscany. Luckily enough we made it in time for the region’s jousting competition dating back to medieval days. Ms. Foodie International was a wealth of knowledge and introduced us to her neighbors, local olive farmers who generously welcomed us into their home on an olive farm. The experience was truly out of this world and really confirmed my premonition that last minute trip planning can lead to amazing adventures.

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This post is dedicated to what I can only describe as being one of the best meals in Italy. In the UNESCO World Heritage town of Pienza the smell of pecorino cheese was overpowering, great for cheesemongers like me, not so much for those who aren’t a fan. Many recommendations were made for where to eat and buy some locally made products. However, with the tiny streets and unfamiliar roads (and no knowledge of Italian) we could not find the recommended restaurant and had no reservations for the other, however, we found a place that would go down in our foodie history books.

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La Buca di Enea di Enea was a tiny hole in the wall treasure ran by a husband and wife team with the best most hospitable service and down right delicious food. And it is is found only a few steps off of the main street of Pienza, Corso Il Rossellini, on the quaint side street of Via della Buca. 

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The menu was extensive and offered many traditional tuscan dishes including a variety of meals made with the local pecorino cheese. We ordered a cured meat tray of bresaolo served with shaved pecornio and arugula. So fresh and extremely good. 
04-DSC_0459_2 05-DSC_0460_2 Next, I ordered my all time favorite Italian dish discovered in our very own Philadelphia: Cinghiale con Pappardelle. The meat was cooked in an aromatic range of spices making each mouthful a bite of heaven. The pappardelle cooked to perfection. I will forever dream of this meal. 06-DSC_0464_2 07-DSC_0465_2 Next was the regional specialty, baked pecorino topped with pine nuts, walnuts and honey. What a simple yet beautiful dish and one that stayed in our memory throughout our European journey. If only I could recreate this meal. Sadly I know that in order to do so I will need to take a trip back to Pienza for only those local ingredients and the love and passion of the local people can lead to such amazing and memorable flavors. 08-DSC_0469_2 09-DSC_0471_2

We left the restaurant completely fulfilled and felt like we had a true tuscan meal. Staying on a tuscan oliver farmer’s farm, eating in the kitchens of locals and driving through the vast beautiful land that makes up Tuscany we knew that we had made the right choice to make Tuscany our destination.  12-DSC_0475_2 13-DSC_0476_2

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A Morning at the Rittenhouse Farmers’ Market

Even though I am a city girl, I love getting the chance to experience rural life every once in a while. Since I am a busy student, these opportunities don’t come up all that often, so I try to find some slice of rural life in Philly. The easiest way to do this is to check out some of the areas and markets where fresh produce and goods are sold a few times a week. At this point, I have been going to the Rittenhouse Farmers’ Market for a few years now, and I am consistently happy with my experiences there.

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While it may not exactly be quite the country experience I desire, this market offers up everything from flowers to chicken breasts every Saturday in the block surrounding Rittenhouse Square Park. I haven’t tried every stand yet, but I do have a few solid favorites that I check out each time I stop by.

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My favorite stand is by far the FreshaPeel Hummus one which has some of the best prepackaged hummus I’ve ever had. One thing I love about the company is that they make both the traditional savory and more revolutionary sweet hummus. I almost always get the Lemon Kale Hummus when I stop by, especially in the summertime, since it has a nice light flavor.

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I also recently tried the sweet Chocolate Cherry Hummus. Although I was initially wary of how a sweet hummus would turn out, this one was phenomenal and tastes great with fresh fruit or sugar cookies. If you’re also hesitant to try some of the odder hummus flavors, this stand is a great place to check out because they let you try the hummus before you buy!

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Another stand I’m a fan of is the Cranberry Creek Farm table which has a number of goat cheeses to try and buy. My two favorites are the 1903 and the St. Juni. No matter your preference, there’s bound to be a cheese here that you will love. They even throw in some seasonal specialties like a soft Pumpkin Chevre. I haven’t tried this one yet, but I’m sure the next time I stop by I’ll pick some up since I have yet to try a cheese I dislike.

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For anyone with a sweet-tooth, the John and Kira’s stand should definitely be visited. The people that run this stand make some quality chocolate, and many of the assortments they put out during the Farmers’ Market make great gifts. This company doesn’t just know what makes up great chocolate, but they also create some beautiful pieces.

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Last week was the first time I indulged myself in their offerings, so I picked up a random assortment of six that included everything from dark chocolate to salty caramel pieces. I didn’t come across one combination I didn’t like, so I will probably be stopping by again to pick up some Christmas gifts.

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While I love the food aspects of the Farmers’ Market, I also love the Blue Mountain Vineyards table. This stand is great for anyone who loves wine to check out. I stopped by for the first time after I turned 21 this past weekend, and I’m glad I did. They offer a wide array of wines which include everything from a 2008 Chardonnay Reserve to a 2011 Shiraz.

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The best part of this company having a table is that they provide samples of almost all of their wines. Personally, I was a fan of the 2008 Merlot, but I’m sure that any wine lover could find a blend they like here. My one recommendation would be that this stand tends to generate a lot of activity, so if you notice a lull while you’re walking around, I would pounce of this table first. Even if you are vying for the attention of the man behind the table, it’s worth wading through the crowd to try it out.

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If you enjoy going to a nice Farmers’ Market, the one in Rittenhouse every Saturday is definitely a great one to check out. There is a great range of various stands that each offer different products for potential buyers. In addition to having a lot of options, almost all of the stands provide samples, so you don’t have to tie yourself down to something you might not like. I would recommend this market to fellow Philadelphians, especially ones who love pretty views while they shop for their groceries for the week.

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Tapas at Quimet y Quimet in Barcelona (Spain)

Barcelona is filled with tapas bars, wine bars and restaurants making it extremely hard for those of us incapable of making decisions when provided with too many choices. After a long day of exploring the magnificent works of Gaudi it was quite tempting to stop at one of the many places along our walk. But I needed to check out one of the most famous yet hidden tapas gems in Barcelona, Quimet y Quimet.

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And so we walked through many neighborhoods, across the red light district, into the North African district with halal shops and finally made it to Quimet y Quimet in the El Poble Sec only to find that it was closed. Shocked and horrified as only the Hungry Nomad can be when placed in a state of extreme hunger, I was not sure what to do. The restaurant would open in an hour and we had come too far to turn back. And so we waited…waited…and waited until the tiny little bar finally opened its doors.

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Once open the place was packed within 10 minutes.  Super models, tourists and locals all swarmed the place and yelled orders to the man and wife duo at the bar. We were one of the first ones there so we had bar side spots making it quite easy to point and order in a shop where Catalan language is strictly abided by.

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We drank and looked around to get inspiration on what to order. A lot of finger pointing was done but the gentle man at the bar understood each and every order and spewed out open faced tapas that looked too good to eat. A piece of art waiting to be devoured.  The smoked salmon with Greek yogurt and truffled honey, which brought together  the milky fresh yogurt, the smoky salmon and sweet honey making it a contrast between savory and sweet and the Montado de pate with onion marmalade and balsamic drizzle are only a few of the innovative plates we tried that night. If you happen to make it to this tiny little gem your best bet is to point to the flavors you want and let the owners surprise you. You will not be disappointed.

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Quimet y Quimet is locatd at: Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25, +34 93 442 3142. Open Mon-Fri noon-4pm, 7pm-10.30pm, Sat noon-4pm, closed August


 

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A Design Driven Boutique Hotel in the Heart of Florence (Italy)

There are many beauties to revel at in Florence and the hotel experience should be something that adds to the experience. On our latest trip to Florence we stayed at the JK Place Firenze– a centrally located hotel which oozes style, design and class.  The hotel is situated right on Piazza Santa Maria Novella, one of the many beautiful squares in Florence.

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Location:

For convenience sake, the hotel is a 5 minute walk from the local train station in case you, like us, are arriving on the train from another Italian destination. The square has one of the most stunning Basilicas which can be seen from many of the rooms facing the square.

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There are no signs at JK Firenze. It is discreet and unassuming and only those in the know will find their way inside. Once inside, guests are left with the impression of being in a home away from home. That is if your home is styled to the nines and is designed to perfection.

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Decor:

Guests are greeted at the door by the friendly doorman and walked through the hallway to the ‘front desk’. Except, the front desk is actually a one man desk located in the middle of the hotel surrounded by a dark wood library filled with books, videos and information pamphlets. Check in felt more like arriving at a friend’s home. An ice cold glass of lemonade was handed to us, a thoughtful touch, given that Florence in August is scorching hot.

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The framed life drawings, sculptures, images and books remind us that we are in the center of the renaissance art world. At this point, we make our way through the hidden elevator up to our exclusive two-level suite with a view to die for.

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Rooms:

Our room was so pleasant, welcoming and beautiful that we just melted into our bed and had to really push ourselves to leave. The first floor featured a beautiful working desk, leather couch and television. The stairs lead up to the second floor bedroom area, bathroom and closet.  The high painted ceilings, paneled walls and the modern pieces of furniture made this room one of the nicest during our European journey.

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What made the room so special was the carefully selected furniture, design and view on to the square.

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Dining:

Continuing with the family-style approach, breakfast was served in a covered courtyard at a communal table encouraging all guests to interact with one another. A buffet filled with fresh fruits, cheese, bread and yogurt is at our disposal. The table is then used throughout the day to offer guests refreshments, cakes and fruits. The big hit was the ice cold watermelon which hit the spot after a long walk around town on a hot August day.

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Amenities include:

•             Fresh seasonal organic fruit basket in your room

•             complimentary mini bar (soft-drinks)

•             Daily newspaper

•             Buffet breakfast

•             Complimentary organic coffee and tea during the stay

•             Free Homemade finger food and cakes from J.K. Buffet

•             Free WI-FI internet access

•             Free access to the exclusive Olimpo SPA Steam Bath (located in via Tornabuoni, two  minutes walking)

•             Free access to Florence Fitness Gym (located in via dei Fossi, one minute walking),

•             Free entrance to all Fiesole museums

•             Cd\Dvds selection

JK Place Firenze is located at Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7 50123, Florence, Italy, +39 055 264 5181


 

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Will cross over the bridge for a good Pho (New Orleans)

It is no secret that New Orleans is a foodie haven. With all that gumbo, jambalaya and po boys there is hardly any room left for other types of cuisines. But after having tasted all that Cajun and creole food, you, like me might miss the variety. Luckily, there is another secret for us foodies: Vietnamese Food. If you are hungry for some pho, spring rolls or rice vermicelli then all you need to do is cross the bridge over to Gretna in the West Bank. Known for its large Vietnamese community and other immigrant communities there is some great food to be found on this side of the Mississippi. The Count took me here the first day I got into town due to his deep love for this place (rumor has it he held his birthday dinners here 3 years in a row). Perhaps not the most ‘New Orleans’ experience but for those of us craving a little something  different, then this restaurant is a treat, not to mention delicious.
I can attest to the authenticity of their dishes given that I recently returned from a foodie-centric trip to Vietnam (see posts). I’d lie if I said that I have tried everything on the menu given the vast range of options, but one thing is for sure: the grilled quail with lemon dipping sauce is always on our order.
The bbq short ribs served with spicy kimchi and rice is a delight, as is the chicken pho ga served with a side dish of fresh herbs and the shrimp rice roll. You can polish off your meal with a nice refreshing bubble tea shake.

Tan Dinh is located at 1705 Lafayette St # A, Gretna, Louisiana
Telephone: (504) 361-8008

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