Street Food in Hanoi: Bún Chả (Bún noodles with grilled pork patties in broth)

Hanoi is a major foodie destination and many like myself come equipped with an appetite, ready to try almost anything and everything (although I draw the line at eating Vietnamese dog, which I learned is still common amongst the elders).  Every foodie traveling to Hanoi should already know that street food is a way of life here. A life which many tourists don’t dare to try.  And while I was daring and ready to sit down at any of the many small street food stands, traveling with a physician prevented me from doing so. I was constantly reminded of all the reasons I should not be eating street food including parasites and traveller’s diarrhea to name a few. But how could I ignore all the smells and aroma permeating the Old Quarter. So, I took the risk and dragged the physician along with me (he refused to try but instead stared at me in horror while I sat down to eat).

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Street food is central to the life and culture of the city. At any time of day, you will see crowds of people crouched on street corners slurping away on fresh pho (literally fresh, the chicken was alive only a few hours prior to cooking). While I was excited to try some phở, I ended up sitting down on my first day for a mystery meal. Mystery because each stand only serves one dish. And I did not know what dish it was I would be eating, having selected the spot based on the crowds of people munching away. All I know is that it was good. Very good. And I wanted more. But what was it? No one spoke English. So I took a photo and decided to investigate later.

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I later learned that the mysterious and delicious meal I had (all less than a dollar) was the popular and quintessential bún chả dish. A serving of crispy, caramelized slices of pork (although at the time I could swear it was chicken), along side a a bowl of bun noodles, and a bowl of warm light fish sauce based broth with small slices of pickled green papaya. A plate of fried spring rolls –nem cua bể was served alongside the bún chả. Probably the most delicious spring rolls I’ve yet to taste in my quest for Vietnamese food. A combination of minced pork, glass noodles, mushrooms and bean sprouts wrapped in egg roll and fried. All this was served with a basket of fresh herbs and vegetables.

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Once the dish arrived, I was not sure what to do with it or how to do put it together. In such a scenario, imitation is essential. I looked around and noticed that all the localers (who were eyeing me suspiciously) dumped the grilled pork patties (thit bam) into the broth. Next, the noodles were dipped in the broth picking up a piece of pork on the way before gently placing in the mouth.

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Vietnamese Cà Phê adventures in Hanoi, Vietnam

One of the highlights of our trip to Vietnam was the abundance of high quality, rich, chocolatey coffee on every corner- all for less than a dollar. The Vietnamese know their coffee and take it very seriously. Yet, don’t go searching for fancy shops with overly happy baristas serving multiple lettered coffee drinks. Some of the best coffee we had were on street corners and curbside food stands. Just some shabby plastic stools, laminated tables and the buzzing sound of motorbikes.

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One of the best discoveries was cà phê sua chua or known to us foreigners as yogurt coffee. At first, a bit apprehensive to try coffee with yogurt. What could be so good about that? But after first taste, we were left wanting more, ordered seconds and for the remainder of our trip searched for ca phe sua chua on every occasion (sadly it was not so popular in the South). The bitterness of the coffee blends perfectly with the slightly sweetened yogurt.

2-DSC_0337Cà phê sua chua consists of a Vietnamese vinamilk yogurt (delicately sweet and delicious), a splash of condensed milk and strong Vietnamese coffee. Ice is optional.

Another treasure was the Cà phê sua da, rich and smooth drip coffee served with condensed milk. I probably had 10 of these a day, shaking and jittery on a coffee high after each drink. In fact, most of my time in Hanoi was spent on a coffee high.

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In order to get the ultimate coffee experience it was essential to learn how to order these  drinks at places where English was hard to come by. Usually pointing to the drink did the trick but otherwise the coffee vocabulary musts include: cà phê  (coffee); đen or sữa (black or sweetened;  nóng or đá (hot or iced).

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10 days in Vietnam- The Itinerary

Our trip to Vietnam started in the energetic capital city of Hanoi in the North and ended in Ho Chi Minh City (former Saigon) in the South. Many travelers to Vietnam choose to work their way down the slender country or work their way up from Saigon.

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Orderly Chaos in Hanoi, Vietnam

The Itinerary:

Three days in Hanoi were plenty to experience the buzzing commercial chaos of the Old Quarter with its endless markets and street food stalls, the tai chi sessions along the vast lakes and all the amazing yet daring street food.

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We then headed to Halong Bay where we spent the night on a Junk boat and took in the magnificent and majestic scenery and sea air.

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Sunrise and Tai Chi in Halong Bay, Vietnam

Departing Halong Bay at noon the next day, we arrived back in Hanoi at around 5 in the evening. We spent the night in Hanoi having a great dinner and catching a performance at the water puppet show in the Old Quarter. The next morning we took an early flight to Hoi An (via Danang International Airport). We decided to skip the Imperial City of Hue (pronounced Hoo- eh) adding two extra nights in Hoi An soaking in the unique French colonial atmosphere, pagoda’s and amazing food while getting some sun on the virgin beaches.

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Colorful streets of Hoi An, Vietnam
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Hoi An, Vietnam

Finally, we flew from Hoi An to Ho Chi Minh City spending two nights in the buzzing city spending our days touring the town and the evenings shopping and eating in the night markets.

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South Beach Food and Wine Festival- FEB 21-24 2013 (Miami, USA)

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This year I’ll be eating and drinking my way through South Beach Food and Wine Festival which runs from February 21 to 24 in Miami. I’m hoping to rub shoulders with some of my favorite celebrity chefs. The line up of events looks amazing including a film screening of Jiro Dreams of Sushi and Q&A with Anthony Bourdain, a Garden to Glass event hosted by Emeril Lagasse, Celebrity Chef Golf Tournament hosted by José Andrés at Turnberry Isle Miami and so much more. This year will mark the 12th anniversary of the festival which showcases the talents of some of the world’s most renowned chefs and culinary personalities.

See SOBEWFF2012-02-06-2013 SCHEDULE here! 

BUY TICKETS HERE! 

Photo Courtesy of http://www.hauteliving.com
Photo Courtesy of http://www.hauteliving.com

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Organic Farmer’s Market at the Noordermarkt (Amsterdam, The Netherlands)

Farmer’s markets are one of my favorite places to visit when traveling, oohing and aahing over all the delicious produce. Actually, I love them even when I’m not on the move. They’re like window shopping on the high street, but then for food lovers. 

Every Saturday at the Noordermarkt in Amsterdam you can find a lovely organic farmer’s market, with your pick of organic fruits, veggies, cheese and bread. And now that the season of mushrooms and pumpkins is upon us, seas of deep browns and oranges are overflowing the stalls. A definite feast for the eyes. Really, the only downside to this market is that it’s packed with people and that the prices surely are above your usual ‘high street’ level..

You can also find some nice stalls with non-food items, such as second-hand books and Dutch antiques. When I was still living in the Netherlands, I used to visit the Noordermarkt early on Monday mornings when all the stalls are filled with vintage clothing, bric-a-brac, fabrics & notions. It’s a great time spent rummaging about and a definite plus is that the city is still so quiet and asleep, something which doesn’t happen very often in Amsterdam. 

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La Trattoria Di Donna Sofia & IJsfabriek Monte Pelmo (Amsterdam, The Netherlands)

I’m pretty sure the weather in the Netherlands was so delightfully good just for our visit back home, or at least that’s what I’d like to tell myself after months of rainy season in the Congo… I felt so lucky to have caught just that last bit of summer, and very lucky to have been staying at our friends who live in one of the Negen Straatjes, or Nine Streets, an adorable neighborhood in the centre of Amsterdam, dotted with lovely coffee places, restaurants and little boutiques. 

moving house in the Negen Straatjes, Amsterdam-style

With this post we’re moving on though, to an old neighborhood of Amsterdam: de Jordaan. Perhaps I was hit by a stroke of home sickness or by the sun, but I simply adored it here and immediately imagined myself living in one of these cute small houses… 

Can you already imagine yourself living here? And do you adore these windows as much as I do? But let’s not get carried away. Let’s talk about food. And then get carried away. 

Below the menu of La Trattoria Di Donna Sofia, located in the middle of this great neighborhood, and I can tell you all we ate tasted as good as it looks written down. The wine came from Sicily which we chose just for nostalgic reasons (and the waiter from Italy judging by his lively Italian accent). 

It’s a small, cozy restaurant with a small menu. Moreover, Donna Sofia serves great authentic food. Eating together with my vegetarian hubby, we ordered a vegetarian antipasti and one with king prawns. The grilled and fried vegetables with ricotta and mozzarella cheese were perfectly prepared with all flavors deliciously coming to their full advantage. My favorite by far though was the antipasti with mozzarella, fresh basil, spinach, pesto and king prawns. All favorite and comfortable flavors, but still refreshing and new in this mix. So good! 

For my primi I chose mafaldine pasta out of the oven with egg plants, which was again a simple, honest dish and very well executed. We also had the spaghetti with tiny octopuses, which was perhaps a bit too simple to my taste (not photographed). After all this we were so stuffed we didn’t get to try their secondi, although what I saw around me looked equally comforting and delicious as what we had just devoured. 


And who’s that dining here as well??
Sadly, Donna Sofia was out of our dessert of choice and so we decided to get ice cream across the street. Our waiter even told us it was a better choice (!?). It definitely was in fact, people were even lining up to get their dairy fix (which I’ve hardly ever seen here in the Netherlands by the way, it seems lining up for good food is much more a Northern American thing). It turns out IJsfabriek Monte Pelmo is quite famous for its ice cream. Rightly so, I thoroughly enjoyed their rich chocolate & coffee flavors. All meal is well that ends well, I’d say!

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Recipe: Poulet Congolais from the Congo

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Finally I’m back home (& back online!) after months of living and working in Congo. So many stories to tell, so many experiences to share. For this blog the main question to answer is of course: what does a hungry nomad eat when this far away from home?

Well, she tries all that she can: from foufou (cassave paste resembling mashed potatoes, low on flavor, heavy on the stomach), pili pili peppers (hot!!) and fried fish from Lake Kivu, to loads of peanuts and cheese from Goma (small yellow cheese a bit like an aged Gouda… great for this cheese addict). But what I’d like to share with you today is a local recipe for a dish with ingredients you can source easily wherever you may be. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to comment!


Ingredients: 

1) A chicken
2) Tomatoes
3) Onions
4a.) Peanuts
4b.) …  or peanut butter

Instructions:

1) peel and puree your tomatoes, add tomato paste and dice the onions

2) grind peanuts
3) in a big pot add (olive) oil and onions. When the onions are glazed, add tomatoes, paste, peanuts and chicken. Cook until chicken is tender. Add water if necessary.
4) Serve with spinach and rice. Yum!
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Next Chapter: Philadelphia- Welcome to the City of Brotherly Love

After a two day drive from New Orleans, Louisiana through the vast country we arrived late at night to Philadelphia and drove directly to have our first cheesesteak to welcome ourselves to the city we will be calling home for the next year. What do I really know about Philadelphia? All I know I’ve seen in the movies, Rocky running in the cold up a vast staircase, cheesesteaks, philadelphia cream cheese, pretzels, and that it’s always sunny in Philadelphia. For the next year, I’ll spend every second getting to know the city and eat my way through whatever the city has to offer. 
What’s most exciting for me was to learn that Philadelphia is another foodie haven. Although I am having New Orleans withdrawals I am adapting to my new home town and starting to venture out to local restaurants. And boy- are there a lot of good ones. The large mix of immigrant groups has led to culinary heaven: Italian, Vietnamese, Chinese, French and even Portuguese.  So far we’ve been getting lots of love from the city of brotherly love. 
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A Love Letter to New Orleans (from the Hungry Nomad)

My dear New Orleans,
 
I am sad to be writing this letter, sad to end a chapter, sad to have it all come to an end. But it is time for us to part ways. I want you to know that you have been so good to me. I am so lucky to have lived you, experienced you, breathed you. Why?  
Where do I begin?
 
                                 
I loved waking up every single day to sunshine- that sweet and warm sunshine. Yes there was plenty of rain- but tropical warm rain still feels so good, especially for a Canuck like me. And with the rain came the amazing green lush streets. Those massive oak trees that speak to you if you listen long enough and tell you tales of New Orleans rich past. I have fallen in love with those oak trees many which wear colorful beads proudly and boast their attendance at Mardi Gras.
Yes, I have fallen in love with a tree. Anne Rice once said I love New Orleans physically. I love the trees and the balmy air and the beautiful days”.  I, like Ann Rice, have physically fallen in love with New Orleans.
But the beauty of a town is never complete without the people. I have fallen in love with the warm, friendly and happy people of New Orleans. 
If there was ever a town to have a reason to be full of sorrow and pain, it is New Orleans. And although the damages of Katrina, poverty and crime are all around, it does not stop people from living to the fullest. Every day is a new day and more reason to celebrate. 
I loved all the festivals. How can one town have so many festivals in one year? It started with the New Orleans Jazz Festival where I heard the best soulful music while eating some of that hearty food. Crawfish enchiladas while listening to Jazz. Could anything be better?
Jazz fest gives locals and tourists two full weeks of celebrations. Two weeks of celebrating the town’s rich musical history and artists. So many untapped talent in one town. So much beauty in each performance. 
Even the local cats go to the bar in New Orleans!
I loved Frenchmen street. The energy, the music, the soul of the city comes out at night on Frenchmens.  On any particular night, stepping into any bar I would hear some of the best music ever to hit my eardrums. I would dance among young and old. Locals and tourists. All enjoying life, swaying to the music and happily existing. 
 
It didn’t end there. Next came the French Quarter festival, the Po-boy festival, Oak street festival, oyster festival and creole tomato festival. So many reasons to celebrate. Little reason to mourn the past. 
But nothing, absolutely nothing could top Mardi Gras. Mardi Gras gives people a reason to live. When I first moved down to New Orleans I didn’t appreciate how Mardi Gras is ingrained in the genes of New Orleanians.
One month of celebrations. 
One month of drinking, feasting and playing dress up. 
One month of wonderful, creative and clever floats driving through Saint Charles street.
One month of fancy balls letting you take a step back in time and relive the town’s glorious past. 
One month of king cakes. 
That purple, yellow and green sugary piece of heaven with a surprise in the middle….
… 11 months of planning and counting down the days.
 
And the food! 
What can I say about the food? I fear whatever I say won’t be enough. My first dining experience was at Commander’s Palace. Twenty-five cent martinis. Turtle Soup and Gumbo. Then came the Chargrilled oysters at DragosBarbecued shrimp at Mr. B’sPo-boys at Parktown Tavern and an experience out of this world at Jacques-Imos. 
Oh the food! 
The seafood! 
The oysters, oysters, oysters. 
The spices. The richness and the sauces. 
The fresh chargrilled oysters, the rich seafood gumbo, the spicy jambalaya, the creamy crawfish etouffes, the bread pudding and pralines and my favorite- barbecued shrimp from Mr. B’s. 
But best of all:
I fell in love in New Orleans.
And got married in New Orleans.
I had the second line band follow me down the beautiful grounds of City Park in New Orleans.
And danced to the hair rising soulful voice of Louis Armstrong in New Orleans. 
Even though we are parting ways, New Orleans you will always be in my heart, mind and memories. 
Thank you for the unforgettable time and hospitality. 
Your biggest fan, 
 
The Hungry Nomad
 
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Our first Lolo in St. Martin (Grand Case, St. Martin)

Due to the craziness leading up to our wedding, I really didn’t have the chance to research our honeymoon destination: St. Martin. Little did I know that it not only has some of the nicest beaches I’ve been to but that it is also a culinary heaven. Fact: It has been named the culinary capital of the West Indies due to the large variety of fancy French restaurants and European influences. Where are these restaurants mainly located? In Grand Case.

Beach in St. Marteen
And as is the case in almost all our trips we started the trip driving all across the island in zigzags and several times in circles (of course no trip is complete with the Count getting us lost). After driving around for an hour, we were hungry- really hungry! With no food in sight we kept driving. Miraculously we ended up in Grand Case, which was closer to our hotel than we expected. Grand Case was not what I had expected when I looked on the map- I read that very morning on the plane that it was a small fisherman town with a nice beach and many fancy french restaurants. In my mind (having never been to the Caribbean before) I expected a beach side resort with fancy restaurants and shops sort of similar to the Cote d’Azur. So when we arrived on the main strip of Grand Case we had no idea where we were and that this was where we would spend most of our nights for the next 7 days.

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Buying fresh produce for the kitchen
We smelled barbecued chicken and ribs and delicious Cajun spices. Mouths watering we immediately parked and said to each other that this shabby local out door diner would do. We parked ourselves at one of the many lolo’s packed in this tiny area: The Talk of the Town.  
 A lolo is what localers call an open air food stand which you may find alongside the roadside or beach all over the island and I imagine all over the Caribbean. Some are nicer than others but in general most that we visited had picnic style tables, smoke rising from the BBQ pits with the delicious smell of meats and seafood being grilled and a variety of stews and dishes lined up in large metal tins.


There is usually a variety of dishes that changes daily which you can order alongside your grilled meat. I wanted to try it all but contained myself to the red beans and Cajun spiced rice, friend plantains and barbecued chicken washing it down with a bottle of Ting.

The best park of this experience: it was cheap yet the freshest and best meal we had while in St. Martin.

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