Mardi Gras- the Most Wonderful Time of the Year in New Orleans

If you looked at the tile of this post and thought that perhaps it was almost Christmas, you were wrong. Very wrong. For it is almost time for Mardi Gras, a time in New Orleans were magic happens. I mean who really looks forward to turkey dinner when you have the fabulous king cake to look foward to? 
 
I will take a wild guess here and say that many of those reading this blog have  never experienced carnival season or ‘mardi gras‘. Others don’t even know what it is. I had read about Mardi Gras in my high school french class and always wanted to come to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. Who knew that destiny would make New Orleans my home allowing me to experience this wonderful time of year first hand.
 
For many here, Mardi Gras season seems to be more important than any other holiday. That is because Mardi Gras brings with it weeks of music, parades, floats, parties, balls and playing dress up. (Any excuse will get your average N’awliner playing dress up). Many are part of ‘societies’ or ‘krewes’, have balls to prepare for, and most importantly ride in a ‘float’. Now not anyone can ride in a float…you have to earn your place in a krewe. The whole process and tradition is still a little cloudy to me but all in all in simple language modern day mardi gras season is an excuse to party day and night for one whole month (it seems like a month at least) leading up to fat tuesday and lent. Basically the average Christian is getting it all out of their system before lent.  There are different parades everyday. And you have to attend all of them. Since each has its own creative theme and floats. Riding the floats are many in really beautiful outfits (other times not so much) throwing colorful beads and other goodies at those who yell loud enough and manage to make eye contact. I happen to have mastered the ‘googly eye’ and so was happy to have my neck full of beads by the end of each night (that and having a really tall fiance that can reach over everyone else).  Everywhere you look you will see flashes of purple, green and gold. Purple being my favorite color you can imagine how happy this color scheme makes me.
 
The city shuts down for the duration of the mardi gras season. There are people running around the streets day and night in crazy costumes. And generally everyone is just happy. As happy as I have seen such a large group of people.  I’ll be writing more about my mardi gras experience along with adding a bit of a historical context and explaining the traditions. I am also on a mission to eat my way through all the king cakes in town to find the best one. What is a king cake?  A delicious treat to be found in most bakeries around this time of year. I’ve had many kingcakes in Europe although New Orleanians have  added their own flare to it (as they do to all things) and splash it with purple, green and gold colored sugar and fill it up with delicious fillings including cream cheese, pralines, etc. Any suggestions as to the best King Cake in town? Do share your thoughts. (Also note: I collected the photos below from the wonderful world wide web. I will be adding my own collection shortly). 
 

 

 

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Spanish food at Cafe Granada (New Orleans, USA)

Cafe Grenada serves authentic Spanish tapas in the heart of New Orleans. You all know by now that I love tapas style cuisine since it allows me to taste as many possible flavors in one go. This restaurant is located on South Carrollton in one of my favorite neighbourhoods. Besides the amazing food, sangria, service and ambiance you also get to sit outside under the oak trees and watch the street cars go by and absorb some of that New Orleans charm.  This restaurant is in my top 3 choices of places to dine in New Orleans. The food is always fresh and delicious and I just love the atmosphere. Once a month they also have flamenco nights where you can watch Spanish flamenco dancing while you dine. I highly recommend this restaurant. 
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Franco- German Cuisine at Chef John Besh’s Luke (New Orleans, USA)

Luke is another John Besh restaurant combining Franco-German food and decor to create another masterpiece. I’ve been here several times and each time its completely full. On this occasion we went on Christmas night expecting it to either be closed or empty and were surprised to find it so full that we were offered seats at the bar.  Not that I mind… I enjoyed watching the oyster man hard at work cracking oyster shells and placing them neatly on ice trays. Who knew it was such hard work? 
 
We started off with turtle soup (our favorite)…but weren’t too happy when it was served lukewarm. It was still tasty but less than what we expected at a John Besh restaurant. Next, for our main course we ordered the moules & frites and the Luke Burger. Both were very tasty. Having just arrived from Canada I was shocked at the large portion but was quick to adapt to the almost triple sized portions served in the States. The mussels were enough to feed a whole family!!! I highly recommend sharing…unless you got a really healthy appetite. Most people order their oysters…however not being a fan of raw oysters I am yet to try. 
The burger was good…served along with their house made fries…salty but good! And of course we never leave without dessert: dark chocolate mousse served with orange marmalade. 
Bucket of mussels
Chocolate Mousse
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Eat like a President at Commander’s Palace (New Orleans, USA)

Around since 1880, Commander’s Palace is history served on a platter. The restaurant is located in the Garden District directly across from the famous Lafayette Cemetery.  It is my most favourite spot for Sunday brunch in the city.   Imagine yourself walking through doors back in time. At first you are greeted by the friendly staff and escorted to your table. If you are lucky enough to go for Sunday brunch you’ll immediately be serenaded by jazz musicians. Then it is time for the food. Chef Tory McPhail creates a combination of haute Creole and Louisiana inspired cooking on every plate (see menu). During the week you also get 25 cent martinis! Really! 

On a foggy day in late December the Count and I embarked on a a culinary journey through time to Commander’s Palace. As soon as we sat down, we were served martinis, warm bread and butter. For our starters, of course the turtle soup (that is one of the main reasons we keep going back), its creamy with the right amount of spices and sherry making every spoonful  heaven in your mouth. 
For our main dishes, we had the Quail and Gulf Coast shrimp pasta. Both delicious as always. If I had to choose between meals, I definitely choose the restaurant’s brunch menu over their lunch and dinner menu. However, that is not to say that I don’t thoroughly enjoy lunch each and every time.   The best part as always is dessert: this time we ordered the strawberry shortcake and their world renown bread pudding souffle which is truly to die for.

Strawberry Shortcake delight!!!
Vanished in seconds 🙁
Bread Pudding Souffle

The Hungry Nomad’s Must-Try Suggestions:

1- Turtle Soup
2- Bread Pudding Souffle
3- Ponchatoula Strawberry Shortcake
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Authentic Spanish Food at Lola’s (New Orleans, USA)

If you ever crave Paella and other authentic Spanish delicacies, then I highly suggest you check out this small and quaint restaurant in Bayou St. John. Living by City Park made Lola’s one of our favorite spots to visit for a nice meal.
On our last visit we started off with the usual: a bottle of their red wine sangria with mixed fresh fruits and a loaf of their freshly baked warm bread served with the most amazing garlic butter on earth.
Next, an assortment of their tapas: calamari salad, oysters, garlic mushrooms and crab meat salad. The Crab meat is tossed with their homemade alioli sauce served over avocado on a bed of lettuce. Yum! And for the main dish the obvious choice is always the seafood paella which is really delicious and tastes just as good if not better than some paella dishes I tasted while travelling in Barcelona a few years back (of course the setting and views are not comparable). To finish off, we never leave without sharing a piece of their flour less dark chocolate cake which is to die for and leaves us usually fighting for the last piece. (see menu) 
Sangria perfection

Crabmeat tossed with our homemade alioli , served over avocado on a bed of lettuce

Marinated calamari tossed with calamata olives, tomatoes, & toasted almonds

Shrimp, fish, calamari, scallops, mussels and vegetables, well seasoned with garlic, saffron and herbs

Chocolate Cake

The Hungry Nomad’s Must-Try Suggestions:

1- Seafood Paella
2- Ceviche
3- Chocolate cake

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Il Posto Cafe (New Orleans, USA)

I am so happy I finally got a chance to try this amazing spot. Its nestled in on Dryades street away from street traffic and therefore hard to find if you don’t know about it. 
 
Il Posto is definitely my new favorite sandwich shop in New Orleans. They have an amazing sandwich and salad selection. It is so refreshing to have some quality, delicious, tasty and healthy salads in New Orleans. Trust me I’ve searched around the city and can confirm that a healthy salad is hard to come by down here.  There is also a wide selection of meats and cheeses served on your choice of bread either as a traditional sandwich or grilled panini (see menu).  
 
The inside is a bit cramped (due to popularity) but its a great spot for a quick and healthy breakfast and/or lunch with friends.  
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Bagels at Artz Bagelz (New Orleans, USA)

Finally! A New York Style bagels and cream cheese shop opens in New Orleans…with a southern twist of course. Everything from spicy Cajun to pecan praline flavor cream cheese is available. Healthy salads and sandwiches for those looking for something different then bagels are also offered on the menu.  
The bagels are tasty and I thought reasonably priced…although others seem to disagree. We tried the spicy Cajun and garlic herb and both were happy with our meal. The shop is located just off of Magazine street with both indoor and outdoor seating available. A casual, smart clean atmosphere awaits you for your quick bagel break.  
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Brunch at Surrey’s Uptown (New Orleans, USA)

Happy 2012 to all my readers. I have been away for the past week down in New Orleans eating some good food, drinking mint julips and sazerac and listening to some amazing brass bands. The next few posts will therefore be dedicated to the New Orleans dining scene I discovered on my most recent trip.
First stop, Surrey’s Uptown! On a lovely spring-like day in December the Count and I decided to walk along Magazine street to discover the long stretch of shops, restaurants and art galleries. Along the way we discovered Surrey’s Uptown. Not having heard about it before we were curious to try it for ourselves since the line up seemed long and everyone seemed eager to eat.
The next day along with our friends we visited Surrey’s Uptown for breakfast and I was not only impressed but wanted to go back every day for the rest of the trip (sadly my request was denied by the Count).
They make their own fresh juices which you can blend to make your own creation. I had the carrot, orange and apple juice which was lovely. We all ordered different dishes and tried a bit of each. Mine was the Miga- scrambled eggs mixed in with all sorts of delicious goodies including crispy tortilla chips. The Count had the huevos rancheros deluxe which included smoked salmon. He absolutely loved it! I on the other hand didn’t like the mixture of the black beans and the smoked salmon. Smoked salmon to me is best served with cream cheese, capers and onions. However, to each their own I guess. The best part of the meal had to be the stuffed banana french toast which was truly like to no other I’ve ever tasted. The mixture of flavors and the rich sauce was to die for.
They have a really large selection and I definitely will have to go back to try out the rest. If you ever happen to be in New Orleans definitely check this place out for breakfast/brunch- if one is busy (which I guarantee you it will be) there are always two locations: one Uptown and the other in the Garden District.
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Lilette (New Orleans, USA)

Lilette, located Uptown on Magazine street is one of our top ten places to dine in New Orleans. The restaurant serves authentic French cuisine and carries an extensive list of wine from all regions of France.  Be prepared to wait while before you are seated.  We went there last weekend with the start of the New Orleans Jazz Festival. Perhaps this is why it was busier than usual but having made reservations in advance we expected to be seated in a timely manner… 2 hours past our reservation time we were seated. In fact by the time we sat down most tables were finishing up their dinner. I’m wondering why they take reservations when they can’t keep them. Not to mention our party included a very pregnant friend who had to stand on her feet for two hours.  Complaints aside: once we were seated and the food and wine arrived everything was great. 
 
First on the list was the  potato gnocchi with sage brown butter and parmigiano cream. It was PERFECT. The count and I absolutely love gnocchi and seem to order it whenever its offered on the menu. This one was delicious with a perfect creamy sauce. 
 
 
Our table also ordered a cheese plate which included several different types of specialty cheese including blue and goat cheese. The bread was served right out of the oven…and perfectly warm. 

Cheese plate
The escargot served with mushrooms and Calvados cream. If you like snails then you can’t go wrong with an order of the escargot.
 
The Escargot in creamy butter
Fried Kurobuta Pork Belly with a salad of melon, pea shoots and cucumber
Steak Frites with bordelaise sauce

Roasted Poulet Breast
And after all that I absolutely had to order dessert…which was beautifully presented and amazing.  All in all the meal was fantastic. The ambiance is also very inviting. The restaurant is almost always busy so it makes for a great night out. There is also the newer addition to the Lilette family called the Bouligny Tavern located right next door. They have a wonderful cocktail menu. So if you ever have to wait for  a table make your way over to the Bouligny for a drink. 

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Stein’s Market and Deli (New Orleans, USA)

If you are looking for  delicious New York style sandwiches then Stein Deli is the place for you. A very unassuming Jewish and Italian shop offering cold-cuts, specialty cheeses, meats and other goodies (from around the world). It does tend to be a bit on the pricier side but if its quality that you are after then you won’t mind. My favorites are the Robert and the Jeff Berger served with a side of Kosher pickles. Who would have thought that prosciutto with honey would taste so delicious? 
The Robert (Prosciutto, mozzarella with balsamic vinegar)

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